Little Epiphanies

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  • Something Precious to Behold

    Something Precious to Behold

    The car coasted down the center of Avenida de Mayo at a stately parade-like crawl. People in flip-flops and shorts and light dresses strolled. Insects hummed in the trees and vied with the air conditioning units for the right to be the soundtrack of summer. People in sidewalk cafés fluttered themselves with fans. Under a…

  • The Party’s on the Street

    The Party’s on the Street

    February is my favorite month, bar none. The holidays and their urgencies have passed. Many people have left the city on vacation and those who have returned still exude that holiday vibe together with new tans. Clothing is scant; the MVO (Minimum Viable Outfit) is the sweet spot. Nights are sweaty but come as a…

  • The World at the End of the Line

    The World at the End of the Line

    On a whim, I took the subway to the very last station. Heading for the outskirts of the city is like rumbling across the troubled expanse of  20th Century Argentina. You descend through preening stations of ornate tile proud to be gateways to the first underground system in South America but you exit from stations…

  • Virgin of the High Waters

    Virgin of the High Waters

    When the river started to rise, they busied themselves getting everything as high up as they could. They threw ropes over the rafters and hoisted furniture into the air. A dining room table and its chairs became an elaborate swaying chandelier. They drove the livestock to the highest part of this rolling, water-logged terrain. “The…

  • A Freer Way to Tango

    A Freer Way to Tango

    I was fortunate to be present at the birth of this movement when Augusto organized the first gay milongas in Buenos Aires. Lalo and Roxana Gargano went table to table offering plates of cookies they’d brought from their family’s bakery. It was all very homespun. Nevertheless, we sensed that something momentous was happening that night.…

  • Such Splendid Creatures

    Such Splendid Creatures

    Thank you for your letter. I am well. It has been a trying time. But now the storm has passed and the detritus left in its wake is treasure. I reap the richness now. Scattered seeds are punching up through the hard soil. Their birth was troubled — but isn’t it from such couplings that…